A tape measure and five minutes

Boards

1. 1.For each board size you need, write the width, the height (thickness) and the length in mm, and how many of that size.
2. 2.Say whether you want full stave or finger jointed, and which grade.
3. 3.If the boards are going outside, say so, because the drying is different.

A simple list works: 200 wide × 27 high × 2400 long, 10 pieces, Character, full stave. That is everything we need.

Table tops

1. 1.Rectangular: width, height (thickness) and length in mm. Round: the diameter and the thickness.
2. 2.Say whether the edge is live or straight, and the shape — round or rectangular.
3. 3.If you already have a base, send its make and a photo, or the size of the frame, so the top can be drilled or fitted with blocks to suit.

Allow about 250 mm of overhang past the legs on each side that people sit at.

Solid wood panels

1. 1.For each panel: width, height (thickness) and length in mm, and how many.
2. 2.Say which faces and edges will be seen once it is fitted, so the clean ones go where they show.
3. 3.If a panel is being cut to a shape, a sketch with the sizes on it is enough.

Send the list as a spreadsheet, a PDF or a photo of a handwritten list. Any of them works.

Flooring

1. 1.Board width, height (thickness) and length in mm — or say random lengths if you are happy with a mix.
2. 2.Measure the length and width of the room at its longest and widest points, and multiply the two to get the area in square metres. A 4 m × 5 m room is 20 m².
3. 3.For an L-shaped room, split it into rectangles, work out each one and add them up.
4. 4.Send the total area. We add the cutting allowance for you.
5. 5.Tell us what the floor will be laid on (concrete, joists, chipboard) and whether there is underfloor heating — that decides solid or engineered.

Floating stair treads

1. 1.Count the treads.
2. 2.Width: front to back of one tread (the going), in mm. Check two or three treads; they are usually the same.
3. 3.Height: the thickness you want the tread to be, in mm.
4. 4.Length: side to side, from the wall to the open edge, in mm.
5. 5.If the treads need drilling or pocketing for the fixings, send the stair builder's fixing drawing.

A photo of the staircase, or of the drawing, saves a round of questions.

L-shaped stair treads

1. 1.Count the steps.
2. 2.Width: side to side of one step, in mm.
3. 3.Height: the thickness of the oak you want, in mm.
4. 4.Length of the top side: the tread, front to back, in mm.
5. 5.Length of the front side: the riser, top to bottom, in mm.

The L has two sides, so send both lengths. If the stairs are being clad, a photo tells us what the L has to go over.

Handrails

1. 1.Length: measure each straight run, following the slope of the stairs, in mm. Include any landing runs. Up to 4.2 m comes in one piece.
2. 2.Width and height of the section you want, in mm — or the section of an existing rail if it has to match.
3. 3.Say whether the rail is for glass (and the glass thickness) or for balustrades (and the spindle section).

If you are matching an existing handrail, a close-up of the rail end shows us the profile. An offcut in the post is even better.